21 agosto 2019

Waiting for the wave

Source: own

No matter which season we are in, Las Canteras is always ready to surf, whether the wind is from the north, east, west or south. The wave is there waiting for you to surf it.
I still remember the times when surfboards and boggys were not so common and we went to the Quarries, to the Cicer area to fatten the waves, as we said, bare chest, without having any idea or the good side, or whether it came from the left or the right.
The only thing that mattered to us was to feed the wave, catch it at the right time to reach the shore, without the wave rolling you at risk that you scrape any part of the body and leave the brakes to live flesh for a few weeks.
But surfing not only had the risk of getting you a good roll, but also had the risk that, with the enthusiasm, the current would take you out to sea and have to go out with the help of the few surfers who were in the area.
Even today, when the good weather arrives I go to the Cicer to relive those good moments, to let myself be carried away by the force of the sea and to feed the incredible waves of the beach of Las Canteras